You Really Do Need The Fifth Napkin

 Burgers are back.  It's probably the economy.  I like burgers well enough, but I don't eat them various often.  (I'd rather eat pizza.)  

Well, hey.  It's important to stay abreast of trends.  I heard good things about Hell's Kitchen's Five Napkin Burger so west it was.  

A few notes: 

1. The menu is insane, and I don't mean that in a good way.  I want to know who's ordering the maki rolls at a burger joint.

2. Really, really, are you serious?  $13.95 for a burger?

3. I've never been a fan of brioche-as-burger-bun.

The fries were thin, salty, passable.  The meat was tasty but a bit mushy and guilty of slipping from the bun.  The cheese completely overwhelmed the burger and it came with no lettuce or tomato, or mayonnaise, a big no-no in my book.  Also, I'm not crazy about caramelized onions on burgers.  I like them raw, for the crunch factor.  

The best part of this overpriced experiment was a side of pickles, the bread and butter kind.  They were sweet, salty, and flanked by onions, coriander, and mustard seeds.  If you're watching your wallet--or your figure--I'd suggest opting for the side over the entree.  

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Five Napkin Burger

630 9th Avenue

New York, NY 10036

212.757.2277