We were at The Breslin, home of organ meats and pigs galore. First came a caesar salad, hearts of Romaine with a perfect, lemony dressing, fried parsley, fresh croutons, whole anchovies. Sometimes, the simplest dishes are the most satisfying.
It would have been nice to revel in the delight of a well-executed salad but, alas, the staff at The Breslin pushed us too far too fast. Before we had finished salad and sparkling wine, white wine and side dishes arrived, and then red wine, and then a whole pig. All night, servers were clearing plates while other members of our party ate. All night, wine arrived before we had attacked the glass previous.
The pig? Crisp skin, delicate meat, accompanied by a minty green sauce and a sweet red chutney. The head came on a second platter--eyeballs, brains, tongue, ears, and jowls for us to enjoy. But we had no time to complete our feast before the pig had been cleared and ice cream arrived on the table (really, ice cream, for $120?). They packed our pig to go, but without any of the sauces that came with. Duck fat potatoes, crisp and meaty, were the star of the evening, as were salty-sweet roast carrots. Wilted greens I could have done without. And the service? Well, they certainly didn't win my heart.
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The Breslin
16 W. 29th Street
New York, NY 10001
212.679.1939
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