Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Where The Servers Dine

For a long time in New York, Blue Ribbon Brasserie has been the go-to for people in the biz.  I hadn't been in years and the last time I did go I found that it was more expensive than I thought it should have been.  But nevermind.  When you're hungry and it's past one, there are limited options.  So I took a cab to Sullivan Street. 

Maybe it's a sign of the times, but Blue Ribbon was dead.  Like, hammer a nail in the coffin dead.  This place used to be on a wait well past three in the morning.  And here we walk in and there's an empty dining room at our disposal.  Have people stopped eating out after work?

Well, perhaps.  Or perhaps it was just the Monday doldrums.  As usual, I ordered more than I should have.  We started with a foie gras terrine (it was 21 bucks, but then again, they gave us enough foie to feed a family of four) that came with toasted brioche and citrusy sliced pears.  I could have eaten this and this alone and it would have been sufficient.  But no.  I had to keep going.  

On to steamed perogies, stuffed with meat and served with sour cream and beets.  They were fine, and not my choice.  More than fine was the pu-pu platter style set up that arrived next, frenched chicken wings with piles of crumbled blue cheese and sticky sweet spareribs with a little flame to crisp everything over.  

And then... more.  Salt and pepper shrimp were jumbo and fried with the shells on.  I wasn't sure whether or not I was supposed to eat the shells so I ate some of them and peeled some.  The piece d' resistance, the dish for which Blue Ribbon is known, came last, three stocky marrow bones with French fry forks, more toasted brioche, an oxtail marmalade, and what looked like Maldon Sea salt.  The marrow was like the best butter you've ever had and, combined with the excessive amount of foie, it amounted to one of the more decadent meals I've enjoyed in recent memory.  If only it was always that easy to get into Blue Ribbon.  Sigh. 

Blue Ribbon Brasserie
97 Sullivan Street
New York, NY 10012

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