Saturday, May 9, 2009

Age Is Just A Number (Or So They Say)

I bring that up because my most vivid memory of Lupa, Mario Batali's bustling Thompson Street joint, is from my 21st birthday.  That seems like ages ago now.  September 11th had just happened.  My family rented out the back room and people drank bellinis and we all ate charcuterie and rigatoni with breadcrumbs.  

It was a transcendent meal, but it was also a long time ago, so it's always amazing to me that Lupa never suffers from diner boredom.  They're busy seven days a week.  Their menus don't change dramatically but people still go back.  

I stopped in for a midday snack yesterday.  I had the shaved asparagus with pecorino, a plate of ricotta gnocchi with a sausage bolognese, and some bavette (thin linguine) with black pepper and cheese.  The bavette was the best.  It was simple, it was rustic, it was al dente, and it was perfectly satisfying.  Which, I guess, is why people go back.  You can get what you want.  No fuss, no muss.  No hundred dollar check, either.  The bellinis lack the spirit of invention, but they are delicious.  Maybe that's all food needs to be sometimes: delicious. 

*
Lupa
170 Thompson Street
New York, NY 10012
212.982.5089

2 comments:

vt said...

arguably, food just needs to be delicious all the time; for varying and contextual definitions of delicious. a well-made grilled cheese sandwich is always delicious and happy-making for me, but more so when eaten standing up in front of the griddle at 11pm on a cold, wet night.

Megan said...

i agree with vt! food should Be Delicious ALL THE TIME! cheers!