Showing posts with label Denton brothers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Denton brothers. Show all posts

Thursday, March 5, 2009

'inoteca, The Sequel

Stopped by the new 'inoteca last night.  You know, the one that used to be called Bar Milano, until the economy hit the skids?  I wanted truffled egg toast, sure, but I'm not eating white flour, and also, for the next few weeks the kitchen is only doing cold apps between 1 am and 3 am (I arrived at 1:30).  

I had a rocket (read: arugula) salad with shaved pecorino and pickled red onions.  Pecorino is a bit more gentle than its cow's milk cousin, parmesan.  That was a good thing.  The salad needed a bit of softening.  It came dressed in lemon juice, vinegar, salt and pepper, but with all those onions it was a little too acidic.  I found it tasty but a bit pucker-inducing. 

The chef sent out a panna cotta, topped with cinnamon and fresh pomegranate seeds.  I talked to him about it myself and learned that he used inverted cane sugar rather than refined sugar in the recipe, so I didn't feel bad eating it.  The bar tender sent negronis, per the generous Joe Denton, who even more generously remembered speaking to me when I had lunch at Milano over the summer.  Also on the comp tab: healthy dosages of amaro, topped off even when they shouldn't have been.  

The wine list is predictably Italian and not of much interest to me.  I had a declassified nebbiolo that lacked any characteristic tar-and-rosiness, from my perception.  

No matter.  The Denton brothers have made good in Murray Hill, securing 200 covers a night, minimum.  Economy be damned: people still need their truffled egg toast, I guess.  

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'inoteca
323 3rd Avenue
New York, NY 10010
212.683.3035